DOWNTOWN MACKINAC
Fittingly enough, Downtown Mackinac Island is a
horseshoe-shaped layout of restaurants, hotels and B&B’s,
with galleries, antiques, upscale boutiques, a book store
and multiple souvenir shops. It’s a place with very few
chain stores (there’s a Starbucks, for example), but very
many independent fudge shops. In peak season, about
10,000 pounds of fudge are made in and leave Mackinac
daily, and 10 tons of Michigan sugar arrive by boat each
week. The locals’ nickname for tourists is “Fudgies,” and
since tourists have been eagerly consuming confections
since 1887, the name fits.
Downtown also offers an ample selection of older
hotels and B&Bs. But be sure to research in advance as
rates vary (and bargains can be found). The same can be
said of restaurants. A wonderful lunch at the Jockey Club
(the outdoor café at the stately Grand Hotel) or assorted
waterfront venues costs about the same as a crowded tourist
restaurant downtown. The CVB’s Inside Mackinac guide is a
great starting place for lodging, dining and shopping options.
WHAT YOU DON’T DO
Even at peak season, Mackinac offers a vacation retreat
in the best sense.
I felt my blood pressure drop on Mackinac Island. I
lounged by the Grand Hotel’s serpentine pool (named after
Esther Williams because her 1947 movie This Time for Keeps
was filmed here). I tossed bocce balls on the green, spent an
afternoon on a horse-drawn history tour and indulged in High
Tea (with finger sandwiches, sweets and champagne). I walked
some (OK, a couple) of the 60-plus miles of twisting trails in
the state park. I visited the fort and other attractions, walking
to all of them. I paid my respects one morning in the Post
Cemetery, where I was surrounded by the graves of British and
American soldiers from the War of 1812. I watched red-sky
sunsets from a rocking chair on the hotel porch.
But it wasn’t so much what I did do as what I did not
do. I did not get in a car. I did not eat hastily. I turned off
my cell phone. I did check email, but only once a day. (OK,
twice a day.) I sat doing nothing, book lying in my lap.
And I biked.
I pedaled the 8-mile perimeter of the island one day
… and came back the next morning to do it again. It was
glorious.
I found my balance.
ISLAND
ATTRACTIONS
HISTORIC FORT MACKINAC: Built in 1780, with 14
original buildings inside the fort walls, this is a living history
mecca: reenactments; bugles, fife and drums; costumed
interpreters; demonstrations; Victorian children’s games
and more. Eat at the Fort Mackinac Tea Room, under a
yellow umbrella at a table on the back deck for one of the
best views on the island. In season, the admission fee
extends to include five historic downtown mansions.
CAPTURED SPIRITS: Portraits of Native Americans
dating from 1820, along with other cultural items. Free
admission.
GRAND HOTEL HORSE STABLE AND CARRIAGE
MUSEUM: A stroll from the fort, with 20 antique
carriages and the Grand Hotel’s very special horses in a
stable so lovely you’ll want to sleep there. Free admission.
RICHARD AND JANE MANOOGIAN MACKINAC ART
MUSEUM: Three levels of historic to current work that
features the state park. Free to anyone staying on-island.
IMAGES OF FAITH MUSEUM: Shows settlement of
Mackinac through immigrant groups and the religious
history of the island. Located in Ste. Anne Church; free
admission.
MACKINAC EQUESTRIAN MUSEUM: A photo exhibit
that highlights horse history and culture on the island. Free
admission.
STUART HOUSE: 1817 headquarters of John Jacob
Astor’s fur trading company. Admission by donation.
BUTTERFLY (AND INSECT) HOUSE AND BUTTERFLY
CONSERVATORY: One small island and yet two distinct
butterfly exhibits. Admission fees.
HAUNTS OF MACKINAC: custom guided history tour
of the mysterious, haunted and legendary. For kids, the
Haunted Theatre will elicit some screams.
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