A regional specialty, the “bake” is a fluffy fried bread and the “shark” is a hefty
portion of fried shark. But this is a different type of fried from the Midwest version
of deep-fried. Here, the shark is cooked in an uber-hot, fresh oil that forms a light,
crispy coating over the delicate flaky fish, but leaves no oily taste. Most places that
serve the sandwich also have a buffet table of toppings: the usual lettuce, tomatoes,
cucumbers and mayo, but also sauces that Trinidadians consider essential: garlic,
coriander, cilantro, tamarind and mango chutney.
Competing open-air pavilions and stands line the road across the beach. Loyalty is
hard-won here, but we’re told that Richard’s Bake & Shark is a sure bet. The next day I will
hear differently, from loyalists to other stands. But I think it is difficult to find a bad bake
and shark when it is fresh from the beach.
We make our purchase, and I find myself pausing to inhale the sandwich’s freshness
and the sauces which make all the difference. I do not ever remember eating shark, but
this is the best fish sandwich I’ve ever tasted.
SCENE FOUR: THE HERB BASKET
We are now driving up a mountain road, past terraced plots covered in French and
Spanish thyme, peppermint, chadon beni (similar to cilantro, but stronger), chives and
other vegetables. There are staked tomatoes that look like they will simply disappear
down the steep mountainside if they were to fall off their vines.
Our destination is Paramin, a town perched on one of the highest points of the
island’s northern mountain range and known as Trinidad’s “herb basket.” Paramin is
Catholic and rural, and its residents speak a French dialect that originated in the late
1700s. They are also known for parang, Christmas folk-music traditions. To get to this
remote location, we have switched to a 1982 Range Rover that plugs up the steep roads.
Kyle, our new guide, assures us that the vehicle is in great shape, and that he just put
in new brakes yesterday. He smiles reassuringly in the rear-view mirror. We smile back,
bracing ourselves against the improvised slab seats that face each other, as our heads butt
against the roof. By this time, the mountain roads have become tight little switchbacks at
45-degree angles with zero margin for error between the surface and sheer drops. My ears
pop three times in 15 minutes.
We park in a small turn-around at the top. The vistas are stunning—the Caribbean
Sea in the distance, the intense green of the forest, the terraced gardens with what look
like dollhouses spread out below.
From a tree, we pick a fruit that I’ve never seen.
“Eat the skin,” Kyle says. “Just eat it all.”
We do until the juice runs down our faces.
SCENE FIVE: THE RETURN
Someday, Trinidad, someday soon.
HISTORY
Originally, Trinidad was
inhabited by indigenous
peoples who were nearly
exterminated by European
colonizers. The Spanish,
French and British each
fought over the region and
left behind settlements
and progeny. Groups
from Portugal, Italy, China
and the Middle East also
arrived and merged into the
population. But the majority
of Trinidadians descend from
African slaves and from
Indian indentured servants.
The island’s religions reflect
the ethnic diversity. Here,
there are communities of
Catholic, Protestant, Hindu,
Muslim, Spiritual Baptist
and Orisha.
Trinidad was a British
colony governed alongside
Tobago, a smaller and less
populated island to the
north. The islands operated
under various degrees of
autonomy until they received
full independence—as one
government—in 1976.
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