SCENE TWO: THE SANCTUARY 

It is late afternoon, and we are driving up a winding 

lane into the Caroni Swamp and Bird Sanctuary. It is 
a remarkable ecosystem of more than 15,000 acres of 
protected land, is home to over 180 species of birds and 
hosts 40 different species of fish that come here to spawn. 
Leaving the car, we step into flat-bottomed boats to navigate 
the mangrove waterways and take a quick inventory. We’re 
prepared with mosquito repellent, water, sunglasses, 
binoculars, camera and notebook. But most importantly, we 
have with us our guide, Lester Nanan. 

Full of information and highly observant, Nanan stops 

our boat at almost every turn to point out boas sleeping in 
mangroves, egrets or herons resting by the shore and even 
iguanas and crabs on rocks. His family and heritage greatly 
influenced his love and respect for this land, as well as his 
dedication to its preservation. Nanan’s grandfather spent years 
petitioning the former rulers—the British Crown—to protect 
this habitat from pollution and exploitation. Both Nanan’s 
grandfather and father were responsible for the scarlet ibis’ 
designation as one of two national birds after Trinidad and 
Tobago became an independent republic in 1976. Throughout 
his life, Nanan’s father continued to document the wildlife, 
lead tours and speak for preservation. After his death, the 
government renamed the area as the Winston Nanan Caroni 
Bird Sanctuary in his honor. 

For more than two hours we meander in this area 

that Nanan’s family did so much to preserve. As sunset 
approaches, we stop in an open lagoon as scarlet ibis 
return to roost on the mangrove islands. The birds swoop 
down in “V” formations, their bright red feathers stark 
against the blue sky.

“Cup both ears with your hands,” Nanan suggests. 

“Listen.” We do, and are rewarded with the sounds of the 
birds calling to each other, announcing their return. 

The sun drops quickly close to the equator, and the air 

instantly cools. We see a white, bright moon rising in a still 
blue sky as we head back through the swamp. 

SCENE THREE: BEACH, RAIN AND SHARK

We arrive to Maracas Bay, a popular beach for residents 

of the bustling capital, Port of Spain. Most every day, 
Maracas Bay is a movie-set idealization of paradise with its 
lines of palm trees and deep waters accessed by a twisty two-
lane road. 

Today, however, it is a drizzly weekday. And that suits 

us perfectly. We have no bumper-to-bumper traffic and no 
crowds. We stroll the beach, barefoot, as one lonely guitarist 
strums in the background.

And, of course, the rain doesn’t stop the “bake and shark.”

60

LM

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