SALT MARSH SAFARI. Smell the salt air from the deck of a
40-foot skimmer as it navigates inlets and salt marshes. Guide Ginny
Powell’s enthusiasm was contagious as she handed around elements
of the ecosystem from big plastic bins while sharing her knowledge
of the area’s natural history, fish, marine mammals, plants, tides and
birds. She also relayed fascinating facts, like how ospreys mate for
life. (Which, on second thought, is less impressive since they also take
solo six-month Caribbean vacations each year and then meet up again
to nest in Cape May. Heck, most humans could easily mate for life if
we got six months a year in the Caribbean.)
HISTORY, OH, HISTORY. It’s on every block, but for a more
specific era (1789–1840), stroll the 30 shady acres of historic Cold
Spring Village, a living-history experience with skilled interpreters
engaging kids and adults in activities. Take breakfast or lunch in the
on-site restaurant, the Grange, set in the original grange where farm-
ers met to discuss crops and other issues. As Paul Jau, a reenactor
for 20-plus years, told me, “You come here to get away from the 21st
century for a while.”
TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE. A boardwalk walk,
that is. For more Jersey Shore ambiance, just up the road (really,
they flow together) are the Wildwoods: Wildwood, Wildwood Crest
and North Wildwood. You’ll find more motel and hotel options, mostly
locally owned, plus an ample selection of weekly rentals, from condos
to apartments to cottages. Wildwood has two miles of boardwalk, with
shops, beach kitsch, restaurants and an ocean-side amusement park.
TOUR A WINERY. There are six wineries in a six-mile radius.
Wineries replaced lima-bean fields after Rutgers University did a test
field in the late 1980s to see how certain grapes would grow. What
they found is that ocean and bay breezes, combined with soil specif-
ics, made for a longer growing season with earlier bud breaks … and
some very tasty grapes. I toured Cape May Winery and learned why
grapes prefer wide spaces between rows for air circulation, how to
measure sugar levels and make oak barrels, and how they grow roses
at the end of every row to act as their “canaries in the mine” (mold
is deadly, and roses show mold and insect damage before grapevines
would). The tour focus was on education and “discernment,” but
provided enough wine-tasting that a nap was required afterwards.
CHANCE IT! There are many other options, such as shop-
ping or simply strolling around and watching weddings (Cape May
has been called the third-most-popular wedding destination in the
U.S. after Las Vegas and Disneyworld—the ospreys’ influence, per-
haps). But you’re almost always going to wander into something. The
first afternoon of my visit, I found myself at a Mummers Parade in
Wildwood. I’d never heard of Mummers and their intensely competi-
tive, wild-and-crazy Philadelphia string bands in elaborate themed
costumes. It was like Mardi Gras in New Orleans, with the bands
marching and going through their routines as people from the side-
lines jumped in to join the fun. I’m not exactly sure when I went from
observer to participant, but I know I was out there, dancing like a
fool, strutting my stuff, and laughing until my side hurt.
Not a bad way to start a vacation.